In the vast remoteness beyond the Annapurna massifs in Nepal, a narrow stream meanders through a desert-like landscape cast in the shadow of high rainfall. Brown mounds of earth, reminiscent of peaks, contrast against a sky veiled by clouds, creating a surreal tableau.
Cloaked in traditional Himalayan attire, a woman gathers dried sticks for fuel, preparing for her journey back to the hidden village of Samdzong. Situated amidst the rugged terrain of Upper Mustang, Samdzong remains secluded in the mountainous expanse.
The village of Samdzong exudes a mythical allure with its cluster of rectangular houses painted in pristine white. Perched beneath a brown mound that resembles tightly folded flaps, the village gracefully stretches along its foothold. Rows of trees line both sides, while lush green farm fields spread along the opposite edge, emanating vibrant hues. With its rich history, Samdzong holds the distinction of being Nepal's last forbidden kingdom.
Water trickles through a welcoming scarf adorned with Tibetan scripts encircling the tap's spout, while another woman carefully positions her jar to collect it. Tension etches itself onto the woman's face as Samdzong faces a water crisis. Sadly, Samdzong is diminishing as climate change transforms the fragile Himalayan ecosystem. Temperatures in the Himalayas are escalating at an alarming pace, surpassing global averages. The repercussions are profound: snowlines are retreating further north, and glaciers are receding rapidly. This presents a grave threat as water resources originating from the Himalayas sustain over a billion people downstream, including the inhabitants of Samdzong.
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| A Tibetan settlement in Mustang Nepal. (Source: Erik Torner, Flickr) |
Many have been compelled to leave Samdzong due to increasing uncertainties in their daily lives. The exodus has depleted the village of its younger inhabitants, leaving behind only the elderly and frail. “I’m 65 now so you can tell how long I have lived here”, murmurs an elderly woman named Bakki speaking to Channel News Asia (CNA) in a youtube documentary. Her weathered face was adorned with a few remaining teeth. Her smile reveals a lone lower teeth, a testament to the passage of time and the loss of many others along the way.
Bakki continues to explain why the local inhabitants left, citing the escalating summer rains that trigger flash floods cascading down the cliffs, which she points out. She further emphasizes the dwindling water sources, stating, “The water is getting less and less. Look at our fields: only a few remain, the rest have gone dry!” Adding to the predicament, she notes, “The irrigation channel is also broken.”
The old woman now feels lonely in Samdzong, as the village is noticeably quieter than before. “Here, there’s not much work and no pilgrimage to make,” she says. This place used to be quite lively and cheerful: we had all our cousins and children, and life was good.”
Not surprisingly, Sangmo Gurung, her daughter, is among the many who have left Samdzong and now reside with her family in a new village called Namashung. "When we first had to leave, I was heartbroken," says Sangmo speaking to CNA. She was equally concerned about her children's future as they migrated with her to Namashung.
Sangmo notes that the main difference between the two villages is water availability in their new destination and that it’s easier to travel anywhere. "I keep worrying if my mother is ill or how she is doing, and so I suggested that she sell her goats and move here with us," says Sangmo. However, regardless of her suggestion, Sangmo mentions that the older generation is adamant about spending the rest of their lives in Samdzong, including her mother Bakki.
The situation in Upper Mustang reflects the intricate changes occurring in water systems across the Himalayas. "The Hindu Kush Himalaya region is warming more than the global average. This means it's going to be affected more," explains Miriam Jackson from the Integrated Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD) speaking to CNA. "Many communities in the HKH are particularly vulnerable to these changes as they lack equal means of adaptation." Therefore, even a relatively small change in temperature or water availability could have a significant impact.
As glaciers shrink, runoff initially increases before gradually declining. Jackson notes that some smaller glaciers have already receded to the point where there is less runoff, leading to water shortages in certain communities. "You can adapt to a certain point. But, after a while, you simply cannot adapt anymore."
Experts warn that if global emissions aren't curtailed, the relocation of communities will become increasingly common. At the current heating rate, the Himalayas are poised to lose two-thirds of their glaciers by 2100.
"I believe gradually relocating all the villages is the only viable option," says Rijan Bhakta Kayastha, speaking to CNA. Kayastha, a Professor of Glaciology at the Department of Environmental Science and Engineering at Kathmandu University, boasts over 25 years of experience in Himalayan glaciology, glacio-hydrological modeling, mountain hydrology, and meteorology. He explains that while methods like rainwater harvesting could be implemented, they may not suffice for the people of Samdzong and would also incur substantial costs. Kayastha asserts that water is paramount for survival, and due to its scarcity, people are compelled to relocate. "We need to ensure our survival first before we can address social and religious concerns," he adds.
On the other hand, an excess of precipitation can still pose a threat to the regions of Upper Mustang. Climate change is causing more frequent and intense rain and snow events, which can result in devastating floods and landslides. In the neighboring area of Chhoser, the aftermath of a deadly flood is a hauntingly familiar sight. The riverbed in Chhoser resembles a barren moonscape, strewn with thousands of white stones that cascaded down from the mountains decades ago.
Chhoser residents were directly impacted by a suspected glacial lake outburst flood (GLOF) in the 1980s. "The flood swept away so many people, homes, and livestock," recalls Ngawang Khedup, a resident of Chhoser, still mourning the tragedy. "All of these used to be fertile fields, and there were many homes across the river as well," he adds. "Thirty-two families lived in those homes across the river, and they were all swept away," Khedup explains, highlighting the devastation.
Consequently, residents of Chhoser live in perpetual dread of yet another deadly flood, having already experienced two of them. "It's dangerous," Khedup concludes solemnly.
Today, Nepal is facing the threat of more than 21 potentially hazardous glacial lakes, which are challenging to monitor due to their remote mountain locations. Standing beside one such lake situated at approximately 5,500 meters above sea level—similar to the altitude of Mount Everest Basecamp—CNA Climate Correspondent Jack Board emphasizes that even lakes at such high elevations are fed by glaciers upstream. The escalating temperatures caused by climate change are accelerating glacier melting, leading to the rapid filling of these lakes. This alarming situation has raised concerns among local communities and experts about the heightened risk of floods devastating mountainous regions.
Glacial Meltwater is crucial for sustaining the South Asian population, as it is essential for drinking and irrigation purposes. However, the looming threat of disasters is becoming increasingly prominent. Jackson acknowledges that even if emissions were to cease entirely, a certain level of change is inevitable. Thus, efforts must be made to slow down the process while simultaneously seeking ways to adapt. She predicts that these changes will peak towards the end of the century.
Meanwhile, monks gather in the local monastery to conduct ceremonies, invoking the gods of nature. Residents fervently pray for favorable weather ahead, recognizing that the need for it has never been more pressing.
Reference:
Channel News Asia (CNA) YouTube video titled "Climate Change and Nepal's Dying Village in the Mountains"